Most of the silk produced commercially is from the Bombyx mori silkworm and commomly known as cultivated silk, mulberry silk or white silk. These common names are descriptive: the silk is cultivated, the silkworms feed on Mulberry leaves and the silk is white (even yellow cocoons will lose their colour when degummed). Tussah silk (also spelt tusseh, tussore and tasar) is from just two of the many species of wild silkworms. Anthereae pernyi or the Chinese Oak silkworm (a temperate breed that can be successfully reared in this country) produces most of the world's tussah silk. Anthereae mylitta or the Indian tusseh silkworm is a tropical silk moth which is far more difficult to rear at home in this country. Silk from these two species is sufficiently alike that both are known as tussah silk though quite different from the silk of the Bombyx mori.

All silk consists of two smooth filaments each with a triangular cross section. Together the filaments of the Bombyx mori are 8 to 10 microns in diameter, while those of tussah are 28 to 30 microns in diameter. Tussah silk has tiny hairs on the surface which have the effect of reducing the lustre and preventing the fibres from slipping too easily. Tussah silk is generally a stronger fibre and more resistant to sunlight, perspiration and alkali than cultivated silk. The real beauty of tussah silk lies in its range of natural colours from pale cream to a rich honey colour.