Short, knotty silk left in the combs when silk waste is combed
to produce combed silk tops is known as noils or bourette silk.
The texture and appearance of noils varies and the character of each noil
is determined by the type of waste predominately used for its manufacture.
The short fibres are mostly from the waste surrounding the chrysalis,
known as basin waste, and the black specks associated with noils are pieces
of the crushed skin which the silkworm shed inside the cocoon after its completion.
Tussah silk noils tend to be longer and stronger than cultivated silk noils
because fewer of the tussah cocoons can be reeled. Those noils which
have been through the least commercial processing (such as bleaching and
carbonising) contain the best quality silk although they may contain the most
foreign matter.
Sometimes silk is carded not combed, so that the short and long fibres are
found together. Since this does not enhance the lustre of the silk, it is not
as common as combed silk where the fibres are laid parrallel and the noils
are removed. Carded silks can be in the form of a mass of fibres or a continuous top.
Spin the noils on their own by the long-draw method.
First make small compact rolags and allow twist to travel into the rolag
before extending it. Alternatively blend with short staple fleece
for lively texture. Use noils and carded silk on their own for textured 'paper' or as added
texture in 'paper', felt and embroidery.
Lively knobbly textures in warm natural hues.
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